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That Wednesday morning, we climbed Notre Dame.

climbing the tower of Notre Dame

And climbed.

climbing the tower of Notre Dame

And climbed.

climbing the tower of Notre Dame

And then we were up there with the gargoyles.







And the bells.

Then we went back down, and inside.

I ran out of steam on this weeks ago… you can find all the photos to accompany the rest of the narrative here.

Then we went back to Le Marais, had crepes and cider, then went to Montmartre where I wasted 20 minutes in the Amelie post office, we wandered a bit looking for the hotel Michael once stayed, spent a little time in the Montmartre cemetery, wandered by the Moulin Rouge, hiked up to Sacre Coeur, had possibly the most disgusting mealsnack of the entire week, hiked back down (avoiding the bracelet guys), and then went back to Le Marais to pack and sleep.

On the eighth day, we flew home.



  1. I want to hear more about the disgusting mealsnack at the Sacre Coeur!!
    That first photo is fantastic. They are all good but I really like that one. Love the Chronic Town shot. ND was under scaffolding, as was nearly everything in Europe when I went in the winter of 1995. We didn’t even go inside though I don’t think.
    I sent you an email to your gmail account btw (I have 2 emails for you and I don’t know if you have a preferred one)

    • Disgusting mealsnack: to stave off a blood sugar crash, I popped into a tacky gift shop/snack bar and purchased this thing they called a “croque tomate” or something like that. It consisted of gooey white cheese and a flavorless pale orange slice of tomato grilled between two slices of Wonder-like bread. I suspect they were aiming for the middle American palate. Photo here:

      Thank you. I was startled and thrilled to recognize the Chronic Town gargoyle, right there. I love, love, loved being up there, and dawdled as along as I could. Bummer about the scaffolding. Inside was pretty cool, except for the noisy and rude tourists. (Thanks for the email heads up; I have been really bad about responding to messages lately.)

    • p.s., here is something I got a kick out of inside:

      gleaming and rotating
      • Oh man that is gloriously tacky!!. Now that I think about it, I think we may have gone up inside ND bc I have pics of the scaffolding blocking everything. I did just play the bells video, why do the church bells in Europe sound so much better than over here? (everything is better over there) I have to check out the rest of your pics, though I might cry I want to go!

        • That thing (not rotating) cost 1050 euros! But I could have stared at it rotating endlessly. Maybe it’s an ancient patina on European bells, or maybe it’s because the sounds bounce all over those European gargoyles and flying buttresses and such. Hey, I want to go to other cities with great bells! is Prague a good place to experience bells? But really I want to go back to Paris (and might make myself cry if I think too much about it). {:O

  2. The time I spent on the gargoyle catwalk was just about my favorite time in Paris.

    • Mine too! If I hadn’t run out of steam I would have gushed over how wonderful that was… I didn’t want to leave. Being there while the bells were singing was magical.

  3. Although I was grumpy about getting to Montmartre and then having to wait outside the post office, I look back on my time waiting as kind of fun. I saw a bunch of neat French stuff like: French bird, French dog, French girl, old French man, French trolley car for tourists, etc.

    And then later we saw the French SWAT team!

    • I envy you that. I would’ve been sketching those things, instead of getting stamps I didn’t even use. (but I wouldn’t have wanted to miss the interaction with the man I purchased them from — it was like a caricature out of a movie).

      I forgot to mention that we walked by the Amelie café, too.

    • When my sister and I went to Paris in 1996, we were in the subway waiting for a train and all these camouflage uniformed guys with machine guns came down. It was unnerving to say the least. My sister was like, LET’S GET OUT OF HERE and I said, well if they were going to do something they’d have done it before we saw them probably. I guess it was just the Metro Police. Also in Switzerland in 1984 we were in this tiny mountain town and my friend says “Why is there a guy with a machine gun in front of that building?” and I just laughed and said yeah right and then turned around and said “Why is there a guy with a machine gun in front of that building?”

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